We’re trying another of Diana Henry’s recipes here from A Bird in the Hand. This is actually the very first recipe listed in the book, so I’m not sure why it’s taken us so long to cook it. Technically it’s a Spanish dish, but calls for morcilla – Spanish blood sausage – which we don’t have easy access to. However, we do live in the north west of England, close to Bury – home of Bury black pudding which makes an excellent (and regional!) substitute.
I was born and raised with black pudding and never thought anything of it, so it was a bit of a shock to me when I discovered that some people are squeamish about it. There was a local butcher (Thornley’s) in my home town of Chorley which was renowned for its black pudding. They had their own abattoir, and my School used to organise field trips there… but fortunately the place had closed by the time I reached that age!
When my sister got married, we had various nibbles before the main meal and one of them was a black pudding canape… I remember that they all vanished quickly because they were so tasty, and then some of the guests began to feel regret when they realised what they had eaten. They still enjoyed them though.
I finally converted Mark to black pudding with a stay at the fabulous Jesmond Dene House. Their breakfast came included black pudding and Mark had been so impressed with everything else we ate there, he gave it a go. I wouldn’t say that he’s as much of a fan of the stuff as I am, but he certainly has grown to like it.
Anyway, this recipe is pretty simple. Brown the chicken, then fry the black pudding. Take them out and fry the onion, and deglaze the pan with 200ml of dry sherry. Put the chicken and black pudding back inside, put a lid on and put the whole thing in the oven for 40 minutes. When it’s done, add a swirl of double cream and some toasted pine nuts. We also had some mashed potatoes on the side to help mop up all the creamy and meaty juices.
I liked this one a lot, but then I’m biased. Don’t let the black pudding put you off – it’s a cracking taste!
Sometimes only a pie will do. After the success of chicken pie last week it seemed appropriate to give a steak pie a try, but a quick skim of our recipe books didn’t really turn up anything suitable. So this recipe is put together from two places. Firstly, it uses the “Steak & Kidney Pie” recipe from Nigella Lawson’s How to Eat, but because we were making it for two people we had to scale down the ingredients and as part of this we ditched the kidneys. But rather than making a pastry using self raising flour as Nigella does, we fell back on the good old reliable shortcrust recipe and technique we picked up from John Whaite.
It takes a while to make this one. You chop the celery, carrot, sage and onion finely and fry for a few minutes. Then the beef is tossed in flour, pepper and nutmeg and browned in a pan. The beef is then added to the vegetables along with some stout and beef stock in a casserole dish, then popped in the oven with a lid on at 150C for 2 hours.
In the meantime make and chill the pastry and line a dish (should be a pie dish but we used a cake tin!), then transfer the cooked steak into it, glaze the top with milk and bake in the oven at 190C for about half an hour.
The resulting pie looked spectacular and tasted great. The only grumble was that it was a bit bitter – I think this was because in scaling down the ingredients I’d not used as much beef stock as I should have and used too much stout. But this wasn’t enough to detract from what was a bloody marvellous pie!
Another Korean recipe tonight from Jordan Bourke and Rejina Pyo’s great book Our Korean Kitchen. We bought a great big bag of gochugaru red pepper powder and we’re damn well going to use it!
This isn’t a meal you cook in a hurry – there’s two hours of simmering involved, so there’s some planning required. We couldn’t lay our hands on brisket as suggested, but the casserole steak we ended up with seemed to work OK. Once again, the gochugaru is the star adding a flavour which is quite unlike anything in western cuisine and utterly delicious. That said, after two hour of simmering I was also hoping for something a bit more unctuous. This meal was really nice, but I didn’t think it was quite worth all the time it took!
Back to tried and trusted Diana Henry today. If you follow our blog you’ll have seen the amazing chicken pie we made from one of her other recipes, which was possible the best pie I’ve ever had. Like that one, this recipe comes from A Bird in the Hand and once again was an opportunity to use up some cooked chicken we had left over from a roast.
This recipe is a simpler one than the last, but follows some similar cues such as making a roux, although cider is then added to this to make the rest of the liquid. Diana actually makes this with a crumble topping which includes cheese, but instead I went and made a shortcrust pastry case using the recipe which I picked up at John Whaite’s Kitchen. One of our biggest annoyances is what we call “fake pies” – things that look like a pie but turn out just to have pastry on top. They leave us feeling cheated! So this pie was made with an all round case.
The biggest mistake here though was forgetting to glaze the top of the pie so it didn’t look as sleek and glossy as it could have done. It also broke up quite badly when serving, but frankly it didn’t matter because once again this was an utterly amazing pie. I still prefer the previous “bird pie” we made, but this was another cracker. We served it up with some mash (made using potatoes and carrots, since we have lots of carrots in the fridge to use up) and the last of some homemade coleslaw.
It took me a while to realise that the Japanese name for this dish, handbāgā, is just a Japanese way of writing “hamburger”. This recipe is another one from Kimiko Barber’s Cook Japanese at Home.
I’ve got to admit though, the technique described wasn’t especially clear. It explained that the important thing was the mixing process, but then the only guidance given was to do it as if making pastry. Fortunately I’ve made pastry, but that seemed a very weak description of a process which is essential to the success of the meal.
The burgers are assembled and then steamed, but my upset really came when trying to turn them. The burgers completely fell apart. On top of that the accompanying red sauce which the recipe comes with turned out to be thin and runny. To add insult to injury the broccoli and cauliflower I’d bought to serve this with had gone mouldy.
Burgers tasted OK, but for the hassle involved and the mess that was created trying to make them, I think I’d put this recipe down as a miss.
It’s another Korean recipe tonight from Our Korean Kitchen, and another chance to try out cooking with gochugaru powder. Despite being a seafood dish, there’s quite a lot of meat in here in the form of two pork loin steaks. Technically it’s supposed to include some shell-on mussels, but because we were cooking for two instead of four, I just bought a pack of mixed seafood from the supermarket rather than buying lots of different things.
Cooking is surprisingly easy and – apart from the noodles themselves – this is a one pot meal which doesn’t generate much washing up. Fry the powder first, then add the pork and carrot and fry some more. Now add the onion, garlic, grated ginger and mushrooms for a bit more frying, before finally adding some light soy sauce, fish stock and the seafood. Let it bubble and then serve with the noodles.
The most striking thing about this dish is the bright red colour of the sauce. It’s delicious and spicy but not overwhelming; we continue to be impressed with Korean cuisine (or at least our attempts at it!).
We’ve made chicken and egg donburi before, using a recipe from the Yo Sushi cookbook but this version comes from Kimiko Barber’s Cook Japanese at Home. OK, so technically she wrote them both but we’re counting this as a different meal…
Technique is pretty similar though! Cook some rice, then get on with the meal. Dashi stock, soy sauce, mirin and sugar get mixed together and brought to the boil, then chicken is added and cooked, followed by spring onions and finally some beaten egg gets whirled through.
The final meal isn’t the prettiest thing to look at, and we both found this to be a little lacking in flavour. However, I’m wondering if the instant dashi which I’m using is past its best and this may be the cause? Either way, it made for an interesting change from what we’ve been eating recently. Also, it’s pretty low fat but high in protein!
Another recent purchase of ours is Our Korean Kitchen by Jordan Bourke and Rejina Pyo. Our only real exposure to Korean food up until now have been a few of Nigella’s recipes which call for gochujang sauce. We’ve enjoyed those, so decided to branch out into some more east-Asian recipes after our journey to Japan.
There was on extra ingredient missing for this meal which was gochugaru – Korean red chilli powder. We managed to track down a bag at one of Manchester’s great east-Asian supermarkets, and it was well worth it. The flavours of this dish were just out of this world – possibly a new favourite? It’s a nice and easy one pot recipe too.
I suppose technically this is a winter recipe – it’s English name is “warming chicken and potato stew” – but it’s so delicious it can definitely be enjoyed at any time of year.
We’re continuing our exploration of Japanese cooking through Kimiko Barber’s Cook Japanese at Home. This recipe uses quite a lot of miso paste, a product which we made an interesting discovery about this week.
We’ve bought miso paste in the past from Sainsbury’s – it comes in a small jar of 100g and is their own brand. It’s the only one we can get when doing an online shop with them. However, this week we were in a local Chinese supermarket and found a large jar of the stuff for the same price, made by Yutaka. You can buy it on Amazon (unfortunately at a much higher price) via this link.
The shock discovery is that the Sainsbury’s miso paste is not miso paste! The ingredient list is totally different. The smell is different. The consistency is different. The Yutaka stuff is much nicer and much, much more authentic.
THis recipe takes a little while to make but isn’t hard. Cube the potatoes and put them in a big casserole dish on the hob, along with some konbu, chopped onion, soy sauce, mirin and sake. Add a large volume of cold water and bring to the boil. Once it’s boiling, remove the konbu and simmer for about 12 minutes. Then add chopped carrot and cabbage and simmer for another 12 minutes. Finally, blend some miso and butter and add this to the mix, along with some salmon. The salmon should only take a few minutes to cook and then you’re ready to eat.
We found it a bit messy to eat – the cabbage leaves and liquid resulted in a lot of splatter – but this was a tasty, umami flavoured dish. I think I enjoyed it more than Mark did though.